Hoi An means “peaceful meeting place.” The town is full of lanterns of all colors and beautiful patterns, creating a magical atmosphere that you cannot forget. The historic district (a UNESCO World Heritage site) is preserved so there are no annoying motor bikes allowed…hooray! Hoi An is an example of a well preserved trading port of architecture from the 15th to 19th centuries. The Japanese Bridge is a popular example of this style in the Old Town. Tourists from all over the world flock to this town, and I can see why. Definitely a must see site if you are in Vietnam.
Our first stop in Hoi An was Ann Tailor (I’m serious). Our tour included a free tailored item, like a shirt or skirt, but I wanted a traditional Vietnamese outfit so they gave me a credit towards it. The people at the shop couldn’t believe a tourist wanted their traditional clothing. They were so excited. I chose a cobalt blue silk material for the pants and tunic. You can find great ideas on Pinterest. There were people on our tour that didn’t want anything made, which I thought was super weird. I wanted something I couldn’t get back home that was unique to Vietnam.
Afterwards we were dropped off at our hotel, but would be picked up in a couple hours, which was really awkward since the room was not ready. The Hotel was called Le Pavilion, and it was really nice with the friendliest staff I encountered in Vietnam. My sister and I decided to get a Balinese massage which was ok. I prefer really intense deep tissue massages so I am very picky. I think the town tour should have started right after the tailor shop in order to give us more time the rest of the day.
We were picked up again to do a walking tour in the town with our guide Eric since he lives in Hoi An. We started out at the Chinese or Fukian Assembly Hall, which was founded in 1692, and built by Chinese traders as a spiritual and social gathering place. The inside is dedicated to the goddess of the sea: Thien Hau, and there is a fertility shrine childless couples can visit. I loved the dragon sculptures, which you see in the picture above. Next stop was the Museum of Folklore to see some traditional costumes like the unicorn worn during festivals, and the mythical creature looks totally different in Southeast Asia. I also learned that a traditional Vietnamese bed has no mattress! And we got to see Chinese foot binding shoes…they looked like they were for a baby… The museum offers insight into the history of its town, and the life of its inhabitants.
We took a break at Mot’s Tea, and had some great iced tea, which we were told is a secret family recipe. We also got to try the red bean cake. Southeast Asia makes dessert from healthy stuff, so no chocolate cake here. Last stop on the walking tour was the beautiful Japanese covered bridge. The bridge was constructed by the Japanese inhabitants in the 1590s to link them to the Chinese quarter across the stream. Inside the bridge is a temple dedicated to god of weather, Tran Van Bac De. The bridge looks beautiful at night all lit up as well, so make sure you take a look.
We had dinner at Streets Café, which gets children off the street and trains them in the hospitality industry. The food was delicious. Dessert was homemade coconut ice cream with pineapple. I love supporting organizations like this. My sister and I visited a similar place in Phnom Penh, Cambodia, called Friends (which you must eat at if you go there). Restaurants like this are win/win since you get to eat delicious food and support organizations that help get children off the street.
We walked around Old Town and stayed for the Lantern festival, which is once a month during the full moon. All the lights were switched off, and motor traffic isn’t allowed. A full moon is one of the most sacred times in the Buddhist calendar. During the festival, paper lanterns are lit and set adrift in the river. It looks really pretty at night. We were probably asked a 100 times if we wanted to go for a boat ride, and buy paper lanterns. There is a lantern market you can purchase lanterns made from silk in beautiful patterns and colors. I couldn’t resist so I bought a couple, and hung them in my room when I returned. I have a little piece of Hoi An at home to remind of my visit there.
We took a break at Reaching Out Tea House which employs hearing impaired staff. You will love the silence and tranquility there; it’s got a great atmosphere. There is also a store from the same organization that sells beautiful fair trade items (like silver lantern earrings). I had the tiniest tea cup, and enjoyed a Red Lantern tea that was great. Definitely recommend this place when you need a break from the crowds and noise. After some more exploring we called it a night, and cabbed it back to the hotel. A glass of wine at our lovely hotel ended a perfect day.
The next day we took a motor bike ride for a foodie tour to try the local delicacies. I went to the home of the original white rose dumpling, named White Rose of course. They are shrimp dumplings made with translucent white dough that is bunched up to look like petals. According to local lore, the creator named them after his wife who loved dumplings, and the white roses that were displayed at her funeral. The staff showed us how to make the dumplings, but I couldn’t shape them as nice as the ladies.
Second stop was to Ong Hai, which translates to Second Son restaurant, where I was able to try Cau Lao the local specialty made with pork and noodles. I had the local ginger iced tea as well. I’m a fan of ginger, which is also great for the stomach. I like the spiciness of it. The last stop on the foodie tour was Ben Tre (Bamboo Garden), where we tried sweet corn soup and clap cake, which is eaten at weddings. I liked the fact these restaurants had locals eating there. The food was amazing, and I have to find a Vietnamese restaurant in Chicago!
After that it was back to Ann Tailor to try our Vietnamese outfits. The tailor insisted on getting photos of us, since he wanted a pic of “European” women wearing the traditional dress (the locals called us “European”). I believe the photos are now displayed there for posterity. Everyone in the office stopped what they were doing, and said they loved the blue color and the fit of the dress. My sister got hers in pink. I think it was a good buy that was a fun experience. The outfit was made in a day…incredible! I wish I had gotten another tunic made.
After that it was back to the hotel for some pool time! There was a bar attached to the pool so I could have my Pina Colada while sitting in the cool water. It was nice to take a break and journal by the pool. I could have stayed there all day.
However, wanted to explore Old Town some more. We had dinner at Madame Kiev’s, a restaurant near the river. I had a chicken and lemongrass dish that was really good, spicy and flavorful. I found Nguyen Thai Hoc Street where the lanterns were different colors, making it my favorite spot. We got a local beer and chilled, just people watching. On the same street, I was also able to find some great souvenirs there made with intricate paper designs. It was another great day in Hoi An, but we were both sad since we were leaving for Hanoi early the next day. This was my favorite part of the Vietnam trip, and writing this post makes me smile in remembrance. Now I understand why everyone that has visited Hoi An loves this town.
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